Shoe Icons: Roger Vivier

There are some designers where it is impossible to chose a single shoe which epitomises his contribution to footwear. Manolo Blahnik is one. Vivier is another.
He has, over the years given us the stiletto, the choc, the virgule heel. Pilgrim pumps, fantastic embroidery and beading, clear plastic slingbacks, thigh length boots and ALLEGEDLY the Queen's coronation shoes.
The legend has grown to vast proportions, justifiably so.

Often it is the simplest styles which are the best. 1957-62

Shoe Icons: Ferragamo Vara Courts

The Vara was designed in 1978 by Ferragamo's daughter Fiamma. It is a plain low heeled court with a grosgrain and metal bow on the toe. Since then it hs become the world's best selling shoe, there are hundreds of variations and the iconic bow has been applied to other styles. There is a Vara for everyone. (Or Varina if you like them really really flat).

From the original plain colours with self coloured bow the range has expanded to patent, suede and satin, leather bows, plastic bows and sequins. The toe and heel shapes have followed fashion and the bow has been applied to high heels and sandals.
When it comes to exploiting your signature style, Ferragamo have nailed it.

Andrea Pfister 1942 - 2018

Not for the faint hearted.

Shoe Icons: Charlotte Olympia Kitty Flats

Charlotte Olympia Dellal was born in South Africa and studied at the London School of Fashion and then Cordwainers College. She produced her first collection in 2008.

Her styles are fun and glamorous, influences include old Hollywood, Disney, fantasy and fairy tales, iconic historical shoe designs as well as art and contemporary culture.

Shoe Icons: Andre Perugia's FISH shoe.

Perugia was a French designer who made handmade shoes in the early years of the twentieth century. He designed for several other companies too including I Miller, Givenchy and Charles Joudan. He was also known for making showstoppers, such as the famous heelless red pump of 1937 and 'tributes' to artists including Picasso and Braque.
The Fish shoe is his 1955 homage to Braque, featuring a slender heel and high throated vamp with a cheeky little tail and mouth.

On display at Kunsthal Rotterdam 2014

For more information about this and other fish shoes see The Historialist

Shoe Icons: Chanel Two Tone Slingback

The design was launched in 1957 in cream and black and has been in production more or less ever since being adapted to current trends and applied to other styles.
While Chanel was not the first to use the idea of a dark toe cap on a pale shoe she may well have been the first to apply it to a slingback.
Two tone designs were popular throughout the Edwardian period and during the 20s and 30s on boots, closed shoes and fashion styles.

Rene Mancini for Chanel c1963

Modernised for the 1980s

With CC logo from recent years

Advert 1983

Runway 1998

Runway 2015

Ballerinas with logo

Shoe Icons: Patrick Cox Wannabe Loafer

Patrick Cox was born in Canada and studied at Cordwainer's College London in the mid 80s.
His first Wannabe loafer was designed in 1994 for the autumn collection, they were an instant success with both sexes because they were stylish and comfortable.
(I had a pair of mules in orange suede which I wore to death).

Wannabe loafers with decorative zip 1998 (picture V&A).