Sunday, 24 July 2016

Shoe Folklore

The Cobbler

Although most dictionaries still list cobblers as being menders of shoes, common usage has twisted their role to being makers of them. The meaning of the word changed in the mid twentieth century, originally shoemakers were known as cordwainers. The cordwainers established a guild in the medieval period and woe betide any cobbler who overstepped his brief.

Historically shoes were an expensive item which warranted repair so cobblers patched and soled and latterly re-heeled shoes, these days very few people bother to have more than new heel tips put on their shoes hence the rise of the heel bar.

The often visible nature of the cobblers art gave rise to several idiomatic phrases such as;
Cobbled together meaning made badly of anything to hand or
Load of old cobblers (or simply Cobblers!) meaning rubbish or that the person was telling a tall story.
Let the cobbler stick to his last meaning stick with what you know.


Mending in World War Two
A rubber Philips sole has been added as a preventative measure and only a quarter of the heel has been replaced to conserve materials.


1960s. This pair has had the whole heel replaced not just the tip. Judging by the condition of the rest of the shoe which has been reglued where the crocodile has cracked they were obviously a much loved pair.

Saturday, 2 July 2016

Rayne Spotting 2: The Avengers 1965

Rayne is closely associated with Diana Rigg's character Emma Peel in the Avengers. They made several pairs of black and white shoes and boots to complement John Bates's costumes for the second half of the 1965 b&w series.
As is usual with TV feet are often cut off the bottom of the screen, so you never get to see them very closely.
Here however Emma has to change her shoes due to the plot - Steed has crashed his car and they must walk to the party in the episode. The Hour That Never Was. Shot July 1965, aired November 1965.


Emma sits on the running board of Steed's Bentley to change shoes for boots



Colour production still.

Saturday, 25 June 2016

Style Guide: Dolly Shoes

Dolly shoes are flat slip on courts with an ankle strap fastened by a button or buckle. they have a differennt history to ballerina flats.


Child's dolly shoes by Marshall & Snelgrove 1930s

The origin of this style is thought to stem from the French Doll manufacturer Jumeau who began business in the 1840s.


Bebe Jumeau doll's shoes, Victorian

Nowadays of course you can be any age to wear them

Silver glitter dolly shoes with a heel by Prada

Tuesday, 21 June 2016

Shoe Folklore

Down at Heel: To be poor

Recorded in 1732 in William Darrell's A gentleman instructed in the conduct of a virtuous and happy life

Shoes and shoe leather were expensive, for the poor repairs were costly and as they often only had one pair of shoes, difficult to manage.

The phrase well heeled may have arisen as an antidote to this however there are other theories on the origin of that - see Phrases.org.uk


Louis XIV (1701) by Hyacinthe Rigaud (again).

Sunday, 19 June 2016

Joyce of California: 1940-1949

In a decade where comfort was the number one concern of most women, Joyce made the grade.

December 1940
November 1940
September 1941
September 1941
JAnuary 1942
May 1943
May 1944
August 1944
January 1945
August 1946
March 1946
December 1947
December 1947
August 1948
July 1948
October 1949





This article first appeared on Vintage Chic. 29 June 2010

Monday, 13 June 2016

Rayne: As Seen In...

Vogue GB September 1953.
The new pointed toe and Jordan heel.

In 1953 the heavy, practical styles of the 40s began to give way to something more feminine, heels were still substantial but as the illustration shows the idea of a stilleto heel was already in the designer's mind though the technology was still a year or two away.


Vogue September 1953.


In brown calf with silk pleated inset.

Saturday, 4 June 2016

Handbags and Shoes 1938

Non-matching bags, shoes and gloves from 1938, if you were at all fashionable the styles became more formal as the day wore on. >
Accessories in Eve's Journal May 1938. First posted on Vintage Chic 9 August 2014.