A Century of Shoes: 1922

H&M Rayne started as theatrical costumiers and moved into fashion footwear as a consequence of the interest in what the leading actresses of the Edwardian era were wearing, on and off stage.
By 1920 they were well established in society too, as this 1922 advert indicates. The wedding was that or Princess Mary, third child of King George V and Queen Mary, who married Viscount Lascelles in February. She didn't wear Raynes but plenty of the guests did.

Red Heels

Red heels on black shoes were by no means new in the late 20s but as this excerpt from Patricia Wentworth's 1928 novel Will O' The Wisp shows they weren't considered RESPECTABLE. Odd, considering the pair in the photo are by Joseph Box.

Joseph Box Black brogued strap shoes with red heels at York Castle Museum

David surveyed her with disapproval. The scarlet hat and suit he had seen before, but the black patent leather shoes with scarlet heels were a new horror.
"My good girl, you can't go up to town in those shoes!"
" I don't think I'm anybody's good girl. Am I?"
She did a dance step to display the shoes, kicked up the little red heels with a flourish and announced they were dinky.
David turned away and picked up the paper. His conviction that Folly wanted slapping passed into a strong desire to administer some of the arrears which he considered were a good deal overdue.
"Of course if you don't mind being followed in the street," he observed coldly. He shook out the paper. "You will be, to a dead cert."
"I get followed anyhow," said Folly in a little whispering voice.
David was not at all surprised to hear it.

Flash a-ah, he'll save everyone of us.

Rayne at the movies

Rayne has made shoes for actresses from the day the company was created as a theatrical costumier in 1889, it was a small step to movies and TV.

From Dangerous Moonlight which famously didn't have a single foot or shoe in it. To 2001: A Space Odyssey which had some of the most exciting costumes in any 20th Century film, Rayne have provided shoes for secretaries, glamour girls, murderesses, housewives and astronauts.

Dale Arden is the archetypal adventurous heroine of comic strips. No wonder Ming the Merciless had plans for her.

For a full account of the 1980s film FLASH GORDONclick here.

Dale in a clinch and red and white spectator shoes.

Dale transformed into slave girl by the addition of thousands of gold bugle beads.

Vivienne Westwood at Castle Museum York

England's most English designer struts her stuff at the Castle Museum in York.
Shown together with historical shoes from the museum's own collection which showcase Westwood's historical influences.

A Personal Collection of Vivienne Westwood Shoes, York Castle Museum, until April 28, 2019.
Open daily: 9.30am-5pm
yorkcastlemuseum.org.uk

Shoe Icons: Roger Vivier

There are some designers where it is impossible to chose a single shoe which epitomises his contribution to footwear. Manolo Blahnik is one. Vivier is another.
He has, over the years given us the stiletto, the choc, the virgule heel. Pilgrim pumps, fantastic embroidery and beading, clear plastic slingbacks, thigh length boots and ALLEGEDLY the Queen's coronation shoes.
The legend has grown to vast proportions, justifiably so.

Often it is the simplest styles which are the best. 1957-62

A Century of Shoes: 1921

Advert for the Manfield shop on Regent Street. Shoe shops retained their salon style for most of the interwar period and beyond.
The company, like many, was based in Northampton and had Victorian origins, the brand is still extant.
For an indepth history go here

Ferragamo's Cellophane Shoes

Ferragamo is well known for his innoavtive use of unusual materials or skins.

His use of cellophane came about, like many of his other ideas, due to shortages during the 'autarchy' of the late 30s and 40s.

Shoe 1941

The Ferragamo website tells us that he came up with the idea of using cellophane when he bought his mother a box of chocolates and unwrapped one. Early designs used weaving and crochet in the same way the raffia shoes were made, indeed the same poeple made them.

Sandals 1950-55

Later the cellophane was used in conjunction with a linen or cotton string and merely glued down. The designs continued to be successful until the 60s when more new materials became fashionable.

Sandals 1955-58

A Century of Shoes: 1920

A floral fabric shoe by Charles Strohbeck of Brooklyn. With the sharply pointed toe of the early 20s.

At the Met Museum

Fine Fabrics

Rayne were reknowned for their use of high quality leathers, fabrics and innovative new materials. This spanned their whole range of day shoes, evening sandals, boudoir slippers and handbags.

1940s mule in silk and metallic brocade. Medieval knights and princesses reflect a flirtation with tudor styles at the end of the 1940s

Cut velvet (devoree) and satin heels with a floral design bring plush Victorian luxury to these pumps from 1957

Lurex was a synthetic replacement for metal threads invented in the early 50s. Unlike gold and silver it was cheap. Unlike brass and aluminium it didn't tarnish.

Shoes and matching bag from 1959.

Linen, cotton, velvet and silk were also used extensively. Zibeline was used extensively for evening or wedding shoes that could be dyed to match a dress.

Cotton chintz pumps c1958
Linen sandals c1960
Velvet pumps c1960
Silk pumps c1958

Shoe Icons: Ferragamo Vara Courts

The Vara was designed in 1978 by Ferragamo's daughter Fiamma. It is a plain low heeled court with a grosgrain and metal bow on the toe. Since then it hs become the world's best selling shoe, there are hundreds of variations and the iconic bow has been applied to other styles. There is a Vara for everyone. (Or Varina if you like them really really flat).

From the original plain colours with self coloured bow the range has expanded to patent, suede and satin, leather bows, plastic bows and sequins. The toe and heel shapes have followed fashion and the bow has been applied to high heels and sandals.
When it comes to exploiting your signature style, Ferragamo have nailed it.

A Century of Shoes: 1919

Floral Brocade in 18th century style with a high louis heel by J Costa of Paris c1919.

Stepping Out: New Look Shoes 1948

From the Ideal Home Year Book published at the end of 1948.

Holmes Shoes 1948

First published 8 March 2012 on Vintage Chic

A Century of Shoes 1918

Gold kid evening boots with ghillie lacing by Bray Brothers (USA) C.1918

It's Spring (At last)

Time to think of sandals (and socks)

Lotus 1946

Brevitt 1947

Joyce 1949

Selby 1953

Rayne Shoes Exhibition

The latest Rayne: Shoes For Stars exhibition has just opened at Tullie House Museum in Carlisle. Check out the details here. Bigger and better than last time, more shoes and the addition of couture frocks by Christian Dior, Norman Hartnell, Molyneux etc, it show the shoes in the context of the clothes worn with them.

If you're in the area go and see it, if you're not, make the effort, it's worth it.

Andrea Pfister 1942 - 2018

Not for the faint hearted.

1950s Heel Development

From the back: Tabarin, Jordan, Stiletto